Southbound and Down! 8/18/09

Sam on the AT – Southbound and Down! 8/18/09

Sam and Sallie turned their faces to the south last week and despite a torrential rain storm or two and some unseasonably hot weather, they racked up 130-miles in seven days, an average of 17+miles per day.

Sunday, August 9th, fresh from a good night’s rest, having had a visit from his sister Meredith the day before, Sam put Duncannon, Pennsylvania behind him and headed to Harper’s Ferry, West Virginia about 136-miles down trail.

Harper’s Ferry and the nearby Appalachian Trail is one of the most historical sections that hikers ply. After crossing the Susquehanna River the AT turns southward leading over Sharps Mountain where the rocks are Pocono Formation sandstone and siltstone. From there, it plies the spine of Blue Mountain until it drops into the Cumberland Valley. There it seems a love/hate relationship develops between the thru-hiker and the valley. This arises from the fact that the hiker has left the boulder strewn higher trails and has descended into a flat expanse of low country. Down here it can be oppressively hot and shade is at a premium, but it’s actually a fairly pleasant area for a residential community. The ATC has for years been trying to relocate the Trail to a more remote ridge-top route. The next big climb, South Mountain can be viewed for miles before the ascent. Finally back in the woods and shade, you are in precipitous country here with sharp ridges and sheer cliffs. The surrounding ridges are littered with the remains of the old iron industry. There are reminders all the way along to the Maryland border of the industry that thrived here from the Revolutionary War up through the War of Northern Aggression (Civil War).

As the AT descends back down to Caledonia Gap, history hits you slap in the face. It was through this gap in the mountains that Robert E. Lee led his army on their way to Gettysburg in late June of 1863. It was also near here that John Brown carried out raids against government agents in 1859. Just south of the AT stands Sharpsburg, Maryland, where in 1862, Generals Lee and McClellan fought the bloodiest battle in the War (Antietam).

The AT cuts the Mason-Dixon Line and the hiker is finally in the “True South” at the Pennsylvania – Maryland border. This section of the trail is one of many ghosts. The story of these hills is written in their blood. The very same gaps, mountains, and settlements on the AT maps of today, appeared on the maps of the French during the French and Indian War. Harpers Ferry is among the most contested spots in American history.

Sam and Sallie made it through Turner’s Gap on the AT, on the very same trail that British General Braddock and young officer George Washington traveled with their army to engage the French. After Braddock was killed in battle, Washington and his weary troops stopped while retreating to rest at the South Mountain Tavern which stands today. This part of the trail became the National Road to the West over which some many settlers moved west. Abe Lincoln stayed at the South Mountain Tavern on his way to Congress. This is also Stonewall Jackson country, having seen the General and his troops harass and bloody the nose of the Union’s finest on several occasions during the early months of the War.

Interestingly, the AT follows a stone wall for a ways here. The wall denotes a boundary that was surveyed by a 17-year old George Washington. The oldest national monument to George Washington stands nearby. The stone tower was built in 1827, almost 75-years prior to the “famous” monument in D.C.

Sam’s shoes are holding up well on this part of the trail. His only gear problem at the moment is a broken hiking staff. The fine folks at Leki, the manufacturer, said “no problem” and dropped another set in the mail right away. Sam is carrying about 40-pounds in his pack now. This includes about 16-pounds of food – enough for four to five days. The re-supply stops are more frequent here since the wilderness is somewhat “thinner” shall we say.

Sallie’s doing great! She is so devoted to Sam. Her weight is steady now at around 60-pounds. She continues to carry her own rations and gear. More of a concern now that the temps are getting up into the nineties is Sallie’s long, thick coat of jet-black hair or fur. Sam’s begun looking for a groomer to shear some of that hot coat from Sal so she’ll have a cooler time of it.

Sunday, the pair made it into Harpers Ferry and happened upon another thru-hiker who resides there. In typical “trail angel” manner, he invited Sam and Sallie to stay at his place. Wow, a real bed and home cooked meal or two! He even drove Sam to the Post Office to pick up his mail drop and then to the market for a few food items. Monday afternoon found Sam, friend, and Sallie all out in the Potomac River on rafts and tubes escaping the heat.

Tuesday morning it’s back to reality and the trail. The next big supply stop will be Front Royal, Virginia at the head of the Shenandoah Valley and the start of the Blue Ridge Mountains. From this point on, the trail turns decidedly vertical with its’ highest peaks to come in the next couple of months in North Carolina and Tennessee. Before that, Sam and Sallie have to cover some 533-miles of trail in the state of Virginia, the longest state section on the trail. If their current pace holds up, Sam expects to make North Carolina in just 4-weeks, which will be quite a feat. Of course, Sallie expects to be right there when they cross into Tar Heel country as well.

Don’t forget the emails with comments, questions, or encouragement should be sent to Sam and Sallie at mclemoresam@yahoo.com. Your prayers and heartfelt wishes help Sam and Sallie with every step. Also check out Paul Ott’s “Listen to the Eagle” radio show next Monday evening 6-8 p.m. when Sam will call in to discuss his experience on the Appalachian Trail with Paul and Woody. Until next time, you can keep up with Sam’s travels on http://Samboat@blogspot.com.